Friday, October 28, 2016

A Journey to find ME - Day 3

Already finished my half journey. The previous night, I was just planning the further route of the journey. Actually my schedule was running a bit late. It was because I spend a bit more time on Karnali because of the love of villagers who insisted to have lunch with them. Anyways, it was a nice experience though.

According to the pre-planned schedule, I was suppose to be at Bharuch for the night hault, but I was still at Narmada. Still even did not see Rajpipla. Hence according to the plan, next day I can't directly start for Ahwa-Saputara. The reason is, that I have to go to see Rajpipla first, then have to either catch Bharuch highway or have to go by interior highways.

So, I searched Google Map (thank god, Reliance broadband network was still accessible in such dense jungle), and suddenly an Idea came to my mind. Instead of visiting Ahwa, why can't I just explore this jungle by the route of Dediapada-Sagbara-Ukai?


 
The route was passing through Shoolpaneshwar Wild Life Sanctuary, and this would be indeed a good experience to see such an tourist-abandoned area. However it was Adivasi zone, so have to be careful too, because their rules and regulations are quite different, and we must not disturb it anyway.
 
So early morning I woke up 7 AM around. There was no question of having tea or breakfast because no cafeteria and it was a jungle. So I decided to take bath and leave immediately. It was around 8:20 morning and I accelerated my bike towards Rajpipla, leaving behind the memories of such a beautiful jungle area of Kevadiya. Had breakfast (kind of) and tea on the way and reached Rajpipla around 9 AM.
 
I just heard that there is a palace in Rajpipla, so I started searching it. At first by mistake I entered into a society, but could not find anything which even looks like a palace. The I inquired somebody, and he told that there is a palace called "Vadia Palace" which is inside some government resident colony. I found it.
 
Vadia Palace was a completely abandoned palace (currently I don't know but before 2 years it was). There is a circle shaped pond in front of the palace, the palace entrance has a porch like all other palace do have. The window glasses are broken, may be because of stone pelting. Main door is closed and the floor is full of dust and dry tree-leaves. I inquired to a local person and he said that nobody is much interested to take care of this palace. However there is an another palace where the princely state's last king and queen is still residing. This palace is called Rajvansh Palace. It also has the museum. I just asked for the direction and soon I reached there. It is not much far, it is just inside the city only and may be 1-2 km far from Vadia Palace.
 
There is a nice exterior and entrance of this palace. It has lovely museum on the ground floor and on upper floor, king and queen are living. The palace is considered as heritage site and there was a ticket of 5 Rs. to see the museum and some part of palace. I was so much happy to know the history. According to it, the daughter of the one of the emperor of the state had got married to Kashmiri Prince and went to Kashmir State. Since then, the state had nice relations with Kashmir and Sindh states. The kingdom was really good and was believing in progress rather then fights and expansion of kingdom. Even I met the local old people, they were also saying that all kings were so much kind to the public and were taking full care of each and every person of the state.
 
Anyways, enjoyed the lovely palace, the beautiful river side at the back of the palace. Oh it is almost 11 and I have to reach beyond Ukai by evening and was not aware how the road of Dediapada-Sagbara could be. So I escaped quickly and soon grabbed Rajpipla-Dediapada highway.
 
Well it is a lovely highway with hilly ups and down roads. But, the worry started as my bike came in reserve mode just after 11 km I left Rajpipla. Just to remind you that last I re-fueled before reaching Vadodara. Then I finished Pavagadh, returned back to Vadodara, roam around the city, then covered Chandod, Sardar Sarovar, Rajpipla and now the fuel was over (reserve mode). Can you believe that Rs. 300 fuel has covered 320 KM...!!! This is why I love this bike (Bajaj Platina 110 CC).
 
Now actual worry started, because I was not able to find any fuel pump on the way. However in reserve mode the bike has 2 liter of petrol so can easily reach Dediapada, but I don't want to take chance. Then I asked somebody and he said that there are only 3 fuel stations in this area (1) Dediapada City (2) Netrang City, which is not in my route (3) Sagbara city (see above map again). And if I need fuel, I have to buy it from the local people who were selling it illegally and cost was 100 rs. per liter. However I could have easily reached Dediapada but still I bought 50 Rs. fuel and continued towards Dediapada.
 
Enjoying the scenic beauty of Shoolpaneshwar sanctuary I reached Dediapada after half an hour. Then I found a fuel pump having a bit long queue of two-wheelers. When I asked for the fuel of Rs. 300 they refused and said that there is a rationing system here because of remote area and I can get only fuel of Rs. 100 maximum. I told that I am on journey and have to travel on highways, then they suggested to re-fuel on Sagbara again.
 
Anyways after re-fueling I continued towards Sagbara, and now the bad road started. The road condition was worst that even I was not able to take the speed of 30 km/h. After another 25 minutes I reached very near to Sagbara and took the halt for Lunch. Well, it was just a dhaba and only snacks were served. I had some Samosa, Kachori and tea and then continued.
 
There is a tip for the travelers who do such kind of journey "Do not eat much during day time. Take light snacks, glucose and water throughout journey and have good meal only at night during halt."
 
Well, Sagbara was just 7-8 km away, and I gave lift to a college student of Sagbara. I dropped him there and inquired the road to Ukai, and in next 5 minutes I was on the way to Ukai Dam.
 
I must tell, the way from Sagbara to Ukai was the best highway of my entire trip as well as best highway I ever enjoyed. It passes from a complete tribal-forest fusion area. It passes from dense jungle to lovely green Ghats. It climbs the hills, it roams inside the valley. It passes by small Kasbaa and also passes by green farms. Tapi river runs parallel to this highway. If you stop in the midst of jungle, stop your bike engine, you will feel the roar of water flowing in Tapi river which is just next few meters after jungle from the highway.
 
 I drove at constant 40-50 kmph speed with lots of ups and down and zig-zag roads and reached Ukai Dam around 4 PM. Had a lovely tea on the way and headed towards the Dam site office. Unfortunately there was no staff because of Diwali holidays, hence no one was there to give permission, and the security staff was not allowing to enter without permission slip from the Dam site office. Along with me there were 2-3 more families but all got disappointed. Then I inquired and found that there is a crematorium ahead from where the Dam catchment area is visible.
 
I just moved back towards the crematorium. It was a lonely place among the green fields. Thank god, I found the steps going down to the catchment area. Ohhh...!!! it was a HUGE HUGE dam... The catchment area was dry but I could hear the roar of water gathered on the another side of the dam. I spent a quality time there to observe the dam.
 
It was almost 5:45 PM and I have to go back to find the halt. Because near Ukai there is not much good quality hotels to stay. I started the bike again and moved towards NH 6. It is the highway connecting Surat to Maharashtra. I continued to NH 6 and headed towards Vyara. I thought if I can find some good hotel inside, hence I entered into the city. It is a small and a bit congested town. I tried couple of guest houses but they were dirty and very uncomfortable. I also tried the circuit house, but it was occupied by some MLA or MP because of some family get together.
 
Finally I decided to continue on highway towards Surat and if I can find any hotel on highway. It was dark because winter was started and early sunset. Just as I reached Bardoli, I saw "Hotel Sahyog" on the highway. I approached and luckily I found the room there with cost of Rs. 430 per night. Well, this is what actually I wanted, as I wanted to stay on peaceful atmosphere of highway and this hotel was providing exactly the same.
 
A nice room with TV, hot water and shower in bathroom. I had bath, then surf few channels in TV. Then went for Dinner at downstairs. Well, I must say "Sahyog Hotel" serves lovely food, no matter whichever hotel you find on highway in entire Gujarat. So had lovely dinner, then went back to my room. Oh wow.. "Andaz Apna Apna" was running in a TV channel. I enjoyed it with the next day plan preparation.
 
A benefit of highway hotel is, that restaurant remains open 24 X 7. So had a lovely hot tea at midnight (around 1 AM), and went to sleep.
 
Please stay connected for 4th and Last day.


Thursday, October 13, 2016

A Journey to fine ME- Day 2

It was new year day. Everyone were busy in get-together with warm wishes of New Year saying "Saal Mubarak" to everyone.

I woke up a bit late, you can say around 7:30. I was at Sunil Acharya's house and I was so much overwhelmed with the warm welcome by him and his family members.  Had a bath, had tea and snacks, then packed my beg again to start the further journey.

The route plan for 2nd day was as per below:

Vadodara->Chandod/Karnali->Sardar Sarovar->Rajpipla->Bharuch (Night halt at NH8)

I just checked GPS and found that I am very near to highway and just 4 km and I was on the highway to Dabhoi. It was lovely morning, the sun was shining with mild sun-light and highway was pretty clear. I maintained my speed 50-55 kmph. The tank was still having enough fuel surprisingly. Just wanted to remind you that I re-fueled my tank when I was about to reach Vadodara. Then I finished whole day trip of Pavagadh, Champaner, Vadodara, and right now even half of the fuel is still left...!!!

A small mistake I made selecting the road. I planned that from Dabhoi, I will catch the highway to Garudeshwar, and then will reach to Karnali (Narmada) by a sub-road in between. But by mistake I turned right a bit early and took the highway to Rajpipla.



I understood the mistake and soon took left to the inner village road and reached Chandod instead of Karnali. Well, though not a bad situation, because Narmada was still there and fortunately, I found a big boat taking people from Chandod to Karnali in Just 50 Rs (to and fro). So I parked my bike there in the village itself and took my seat in the Boat. The boat capacity was around 25-30 people and all villagers were there going to Kuber Temple, Karnali.

Ohh.... lovely ride through real Narmada River in a local village boat. I talked to local villagers and they said that whole village goes to Karnali every year in the new year day. They all were so much helpful and so much enthusiastic to know from where I have come, how I reached there etc. They got so much impressed and thrilled, when I told that I am on bike ride of 4 days and my destination is south Gujarat now. :)



Kuber Bhandari temple is situated on the bank of River Narmada at Karnali. You can reach there by road or by boat. There is a nice facility of stay and meal at the temple (Yes, do not expect luxury as this is an old yet very much elegant temple)

A nice lunch there of Potato Sabjee, Ganthia, Bundi and rice. The villagers were so kind, that when I returned back, they refused to take money from me for the boat, but I insisted and gave it to boatman forcibly.

Once again a single bike kick, engine started and journey continued....

It took 15-20 minutes to reach highway but the road was superb. It was bumpy and running parallel to the river Narmada. No traffic at all as it was village approach road.

It was almost 2:30 of noon and I have to reach Sardar Sarovar anyhow before 4 PM because the visit is only allowed till 6 PM there. So I put a bit more pressure on throttle and crossed Rajpipla and took halt for a Tea. I talked with local people and found that there is a short-cut way to reach Sardar Sarovar. For that you do not need to pass by Garudeshwar, there is one internal village road.


A nice yet a bit narrow road, but there is a caution. Before you reach to Sardar Sarovar, you have to first approach "Swagat Sthal" (Reception Area) from where you have to take entry passes for people and vehicles. Passes are only for 4 wheelers, bikers can go with individual passes. The price of the pass was 12 Rs. Now the caution is, that if you go by the road which I have mentioned in above image, then Swagat Sthal is left behind (it come on the way if you enter by Garudeshwar road). In that case you will have to go back 3-4 km and collect the entry passes. The same I did. :)

The road to Sardar Sarovar is one way and circular. But I must say, it is LOVELY road with scenic beauty of the reservoir jungle. If you complete a full circular road, you will be able to visit almost 80% of the dam and their components such as Main Canal, cosway, the catchment area, Sarovar's main approach area (from where Narmada's water coming inside the dam).

When I reach at the dam site, I felt an unknown tremor inside me, because I was in front of one of the largest dams of India to which I only studied from my text books of higher secondary school. According to local guide, the cement which is being used to build the dam is enough to make a 4 track road between Delhi and Mumbai...!!! The dam is surrounded by green hills. It is approx. 160 meter tall from the foundation and spread across 200 km area. I could see 3 high-tension towers which were passing the electricity lines towards Gujarat, Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh.

A beautiful garden, cafeteria increases the beauty of the dam visibility site. I was not having official permission otherwise you can even reach to the basement gallery of the dam where electricity generation is being executed, moreover they will provide you the guide to explain everything. This permission you can take from Gandhinagar (possibly from Narmada Nigam's office).

After finishing the complete observation, I returned back to Swagat Area. On the way, I saw huge Main Canal from where the water is being supplied to entire Gujarat and Rajasthan. There is a bridge over that canal, and when I was standing exactly at the center of the bridge to see the canal downwards which was passing millions of liter water, I felt goose bumps which even I always feel whenever I remember that site.

A nice ripe cucumber to eat on the way near canal and it was almost 6 PM and I wanted to head back to Rajpipla for the night halt. My plan was to reach Bharuch but it was not possible, so I decided to stay at Rajpipla somewhere in a hotel. Suddenly I got an idea that the jungle area is awesome here, and why can't the stay be arranged here? I checked at Swagat Sthal, but unfortunately the Vishram Gruh at Swagath Sthal was full. I inquired further and found that few kilometer away, there is a nice place called "Reva Bhawan" which is constructed recently. I went there but they have denied to give me the room without knowing me properly. :)

Then I remember one of my friends Anand Trivedi. I called him and he gave a reference for me from his contact and I could stay in a beautiful AC room at Rewa Bhawan in Just Rs. 400. Rewa Bhawan is a Dak Banglow kind of guest house having 2 floors with around 25-30 descent 3 Star level rooms and is approx. 3-4 km from Swagat Sthal. It was newly constructed hence cafeteria was not yet started.

Well, I took hot water bath and complete stress of journey went off in few minutes. I felt Pin-Drop silence around because this place is completely surrounded by jungle. There was a gallery in my room but nothing was visible except black shadows of trees and hills. And I was the only tourist residing there, only 4 people total in Rewa Bhawan. Me, the manager and 2 armed policemen.

I just inquired for dinner, and policemen laughed at me. They said sir, even for tea also you have to go 5 km far from here. I saw them my bike and they got shocked saying "oh my god, you have come by bike??? from where????" After knowing everything they guided me and I started my bike again to go inside jungle for 5 km where a beautiful restaurant named "Hotel Riverdel". This beautiful restaurant is just beside Narmada Canal. Unfortunately when I went there, the power failed suddenly. This is obvious in the village area, nothing new. But this really increased the joy of dinner several times. Because, I was sitting on a table which was last, and the canal-jungle area was next to it, and only light source was the candle which waiter have put on my table.

Guyz, you can imagine, a candle lit dinner of Sev-Tomato Sabji, Paratha and Butter Milk with enjoyment of silence of the Narmada Valley and chilling breeze coming from the river area. Nothing more I can express in words here, hope you understand... :)

After having my meal, I returned back to Rewa Bhawan, planned for my next day route (This I will discuss in next post). Television was not working, thank god, I just roam around the garden area of the Guest House, finally felt drowsy and went for sleep around at 10:30 PM. Next day I have to wake up early because I wanted to start at-least before 8 AM.

See you guys, get ready for 3rd Day, it is more thrilling. :) ENJOY....

Wednesday, October 12, 2016

A Journey to find ME - Day 1







After reading my first blog in this series, for those who must be wondering what I am writing for, let me tell you that I was on an 1100 KM Bike Ride to explore some good destinations of central and south Gujarat.

NOTE: Extremely sorry I am very late to post this. It is the tale of 2 years back, which I Started but could not continue properly. Here it is. Enjoy

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It was 6:25 I woke up after 2 times snooze (of 10 minutes) in my mobile alarm. Ohh... late... rushed to the bathroom, had a bath... quickly... then packed rest of the clothes in the beg. Oh, how can I forget the laptop because my WatsAp was installed in Laptop through BlueStack software.

Unfortunately, my tablet phone expired couple of days back, so.. sorry guys don't have the photographs of entire journey. I know you people will kill me reading this... :( but anyways next time. I will be putting some photographs from Internet wherever necessary.

Anyways, it was 7:05, and I locked the door. Hurrah... the journey began. Checked my bike thoroughly... Yes its ready and equipped with new liners and jumpers just a day back. I started my bike, and suddenly the security guard of my flat asked: sir are you going towards Juhapura? I said yes, and I took him to drop there.

My house is at location from where almost all the highways are easily accessible and you do not need to enter into the city. For example towards Gandhinagar and North Gujarat - catch S G Highway. Towards Saurashtra - catch S G Highway and NH8. Towards south Gujarat, just pass by Juhapura and Vishala.

So I dropped the security guard and stopped at Tavakkal Tea Stall in Juhapura. Had an excellent tea and then started again...

Passing by Vishala->Narol Cross Road-> NH8-> Jetalpur->Kheda and then stopped at Nadiad Highway.

The road NH8 from Ahmedabad to Vadodara is still under construction (6 lane conversion), so hell lot of diversions. Still could maintain 45-55 KMPH and then reached around 9:15 to Nadiad.

The place was Dabhan Chaukdi, and it is famous because of Methi Gota and Bhajiya. So ordered a plate of Bhajiya (Just 15 Rs.) and a Masala Tea. On highway I enjoyed tasty Bhajiya and Tea. Then again resumed my journey. Yes I purchased 1 cool water bottle, it is necessary to lower down the temperature of your body while you are riding at day time.

Again the same NH8 with lots of diversions. I must say some of the diversions are so much confusing. They have not kept any sign board or indicator. At one place I also was confused and by mistake entered into the village, then turned back and continued with NH8.

After crossing Anand, when I was entering into Baroda near GSFC, my bike came in reserve mode and I refueled with 300 Rs.

I must say, my bike has given me the excellent mileage throughout the journey. Believe me, after servicing previous day, I just had the petrol of Rs. 200 and it lasted till Baroda. Please note, that after servicing the garage people discards so much fuel, still this mileage is really good.

So after refueling, I switched to Vadodara By-pass and just after few kilometers on Ring road I entered to Vadodara - Halol highway.


Excellent road...!!! I visited Pavagadh earlier (year 1997) but the quality of road was not so good at that time, but this time, really good 4-track road with Toll Booths. (who cares, no toll fee for bikes hehe..!)

Around at 11:30 I reached near Pavagadh. The base is Champaner village from where the excellent hilly road of Pavagadh starts (to "Machi")


Just look at the road. They were excellent and I enjoyed a lot riding my bike on this hilly road. It is around 11 km from the base and full of sharp turns.

Around 12 PM I was at Machi. They have good parking facility there and taking Rs. 30 as a parking charge for whole day (Two Wheeler).

 I was thrilled to go to the temple by Ropeway. Not much crowd so I easily got the ticket of it. Rs. 99 including to and fro. They also have their setup at Saputara and Mansa Devi (Haridwar).


A beautiful journey and unforgettable scenic view of Champaner. "Paisa Vasool Yaar...!!!"

within 15 minutes it reached to the Temple site from where a good market starts. I went there and reached temple. Ohh... so much crowd there. Just did "Darshan" and came back. It was 1:30 and I was hungry. So thought to have Puri and Shak. But when I saw into the Thali, there were 6 Puris. And in Shak 2 big potato pieces were swimming in oily gravy.

You may also face such situation. Let me give you idea how to eat this. Crush both the potatoes and make the pulp of it and mix it in oil gravy. It will make a testy potato gravy which will taste excellent...!!! hehe.. try it!

At-last I returned back to Machi and drove back to Champaner village where I wanted to see the famous mosque of Mughal Saltanat and Chapaner Fort.



The mosque has the entry fee of Rs. 10 but to know the history, this fee is negligible.

Well, after mosque, when I was returning back, somebody told that there is a nice lake to the east of Champaner. The name of that lake was "Vada Talav". I must tell you, it was looking like Fateh Sagar Lake of Udaipur. It was having nice seating arrangement also from where, the look of the lake was elegant. I am sure many of the tourists who see Pavagadh, would not have the idea that there are some ancient mosque and nice lake to see in Champaner.

The lake has a triangle chowk, from where one road goes to Champaner city, one goes back to Halol and one continues to Godhra.

Returned from Champaner around 4 PM and headed towards Vadodara. Suddenly my phone rang and my client Mr. Sanjeet Tiwari called me for some GPS related issue. Thank god, I had Reliance broadband dongle with me, so I took a halt on a highway hotel, order a mast masaledar tea, and started my Laptop. Just took 10-12 minutes and I sorted out. Wow, thanks to internet, that I am able to serve my clients from anywhere I am.

Reached Baroda around 6 PM. Baroda is new for me, so it took time for me to study the route and first I went to Kamati Baug. I must say, this is the city of Maharaja. It has its own charm and royal attitude. There is a nice toy train in Kamati Baug. I sat there for an hour and saw everyone enjoying around. I felt that I was not alone, there is a big community with me around.

Well, after this how can I forget to see the famous GSRTC bus stand of Baroda? I entered and I felt that I am in an airport terminal. Nice basement parking, good cleanliness, wonderful interior and public friendly atmosphere.

All I wanted to do have is a cup of tea and Samosa in the cafeteria. Reasonable rates and good quality, I am impressed. Having sip of tea and with Garam Samosa, looking at the passenger traffic, a nice evening indeed.

Well, once I finished, I headed towards Sunil Sir's home which is at eastern part of Vadodara. I went there and they were so much happy to see me. Had food and went off.

This is the end of 1st day, get ready for 2nd day, it is much much thrilling... :)